{"id":20682,"date":"2022-08-21T12:32:35","date_gmt":"2022-08-21T12:32:35","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.africa-press.net\/gambia\/uncategorized\/from-oysters-in-argyll-to-gazpacho-in-lichfield-12-restaurants-to-try-right-now"},"modified":"2022-08-21T13:01:58","modified_gmt":"2022-08-21T13:01:58","slug":"from-oysters-in-argyll-to-gazpacho-in-lichfield-12-restaurants-to-try-right-now","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.africa-press.net\/gambia\/all-news\/from-oysters-in-argyll-to-gazpacho-in-lichfield-12-restaurants-to-try-right-now","title":{"rendered":"From oysters in Argyll to gazpacho in Lichfield \u2013 12 restaurants to try right now"},"content":{"rendered":"

Africa-Press – Gambia. <\/strong><\/span>Inverlonan is a rural retreat with bothies on a cliff edge overlooking Loch Nell. It has started doing dinners in a disused byre, with straw on the floor and tea lights among the brickwork. We went last November when it was freezing cold. They brought us blankets and hot-water bottles. The chef cooked everything \u2013 11 small courses \u2013 over a fairly rudimentary fire setup. We had oysters with buttermilk, black garlic and elderberry, and local venison with beetroot, and a lollipop covered in dehydrated redcurrants, all extremely delicious. It certainly doesn\u2019t have the luxuries that you come to expect from fine dining restaurants, but it was an exciting, unique experience.Grace & Savour, which opened just a few months ago, uses as much produce as possible from its own garden and farm. The design of the place is incredible \u2013 the dining room has big windows that open on to a beautiful walled garden. The chef, David Taylor, worked at Maaemo in Oslo and the food is very Scandinavian-inspired \u2013 I had a particularly good dish with raw shrimp. The burnt leek with beef garum and butter sauce was a very clever dish that brought out the best from a simple product. And the deep-fried sourdough starter with aged beef and wild garlic was another highlight.Sri Lankan food often gets mistaken for Indian food, but it\u2019s so different, and what Paradise does really well is show how uniquely Sri Lankan its dishes are, with colonial influences from Portuguese and Dutch cuisines. The meal was like an unfolding flavour party. I particularly remember the fried long aubergine with jaggery moju, turmeric and chilli. It was so dark and caramelly and the spicing was euphoric, while the fragrant and gentle moju washed the heat away. There is space now for Sri Lankan stories to be told \u2013 you may not have found that as commonly in the past. And Paradise is unapologetically Sri Lankan. It tells a unique immigrant story and eating there is a real education. You feel enriched by the experience. I\u2019ve been dreaming of it ever since.Chishuru in Brixton Market serves West African cuisine and is run by a female chef, Adejok\u00e9 Bakare. I don\u2019t know too much about West African food, but whenever I go, it reminds me of Japanese food. Last time, the set lunch started with a savoury bean cake served with pumpkin-seed tapenade and a scotch bonnet sauce. It\u2019s quite a kick to start your meal, but wasabi has a similar effect. The main dish was grilled mackerel with a pickle and rice on the side \u2013 again so familiar and comforting to me. I\u2019ve been back many times. A casual and delicious way of eating is really what I appreciate now, rather than menus with lots of courses, and Chishuru does that so well.Cafe Cecilia, off Broadway Market, is about simple, no-fuss cooking. The chef, Max Rocha, worked at St John and the River Cafe, and those influences are in his food and in the elegance of the room, but you can feel his Irish heritage coming through too. It\u2019s casual but you feel properly looked after. Last time I went, I had monkfish with monk\u2019s beard and clams \u2013 simple, beautifully cooked. Another time, I had the onglet with chips, which feels like a holiday classic on a hot day, sitting outside overlooking the canal with an icy cocktail. The Guinness bread ice-cream is one of my favourites. Comforting food is what\u2019s needed right now, and Cafe Cecilia does it really well.<\/p>\n

I think the British pub has lost its identity. Everywhere is trying to be a gastropub, and too much money is spent on decor. The Plimsoll is a local tucked away down the back streets of Finsbury Park, with the smoky feel of an old-style pub. There are informal barstools, the decor has a 1960s\/70s vibe. Originally, the chefs, Jamie Allan and Ed McIlroy [AKA Four Legs], were at the Compton Arms in Highbury. The burgers there were absolutely banging, and they\u2019ve kept them on the menu here. It\u2019s classic British pub food \u2013 they might have a lasagne, or fish and chips, or a prawn cocktail. It brings back a lot of memories of when I was a child meeting my grandparents down the pub. It\u2019s hearty food executed really well in this little hidden gem.<\/p>\n

Yellowhammer is a new bakery, deli and pottery studio in Stockport. It\u2019s co-run by Sam Buckley, whose restaurant Where the Light Gets In is upstairs. Everything about Where the Light Gets In is done to such a high level, with a huge amount of thought and care, and the same applies at Yellowhammer. It serves bread, buns and coffee during the day, and wine and small bites at night. The produce is everything: really beautiful vegetables from its nearby growing project, The Landing, regeneratively farmed meat, fish from day boats. And the bread is stunning. Stockport feels like it\u2019s having a bit of a revival, but really it\u2019s not a particularly well-off area, so to open a restaurant there \u2013 and now this bakery and deli \u2013 was quite bold.This tiny neighbourhood restaurant on the outskirts of Leeds is a humble place but the skill level is really high. There\u2019s just one person cooking and one person at the front, with a four-course set menu at \u00a340. The cooking is modern but often takes inspiration from old recipes, like tomatoes cooked in cream, served with herbs and croutons. Goddamn, it\u2019s delicious. I go all the time and I\u2019ve never had a bad plate, and some of the dishes are pinch-yourself good. You just think: \u201cWhy aren\u2019t there more places like this?\u201d<\/p>\n

Tom Shepherd\u2019s dad has a jewellers in Lichfield. There was an empty space upstairs so he gave it to his son to turn into a restaurant. It really stands out in the town \u2013 it feels like you\u2019re entering a different world. Shepherd is classically trained (he used to work for Sat Bains and Michael Wignall). He\u2019s very much his own chef, cooking what he wants rather than trying to cater for local tastes. One of my favourite courses was the red cabbage gazpacho. And he\u2019s got a really nice Thai green curry dessert, which I loved. It\u2019s a good sign that places like this are opening in towns like Lichfield \u2013 it probably wouldn\u2019t have happened so easily five or 10 years ago.<\/p>\n

Anna Tobias (see interview, p37) opened Cafe Deco just after the first lockdown and I went as soon as I could. There\u2019s a familiarity to her cooking that really attracts me. It\u2019s very seasonal. It\u2019s very underdressed, but it\u2019s perfectly dressed. Anna does the classics in a modern way, but does not overfuss. One of my favourite dishes of hers is an egg with mayonnaise piped on top in the very classic French way. She does that in different guises throughout the seasons. I also love when she does cold sliced meats with very autumnal salads \u2013 a delicious northern European lunch. Her desserts are not very blousy, but actually the simplicity is beautiful. And she makes delicious pies, and I love anybody who makes a pie.<\/p>\n

Chantelle Nicholson\u2019snew restaurant, Apricity, is female-owned and 75% of the kitchen staff is female. The emphasis is on regionality, on sustainability, on zero waste, but without all the shrill tones and preachiness. The menu prioritises plant-based food, but there is also meat and fish on the menu. We started with something called the wasted dip, made with leftover vegetables. It was both sweet and savoury, every bite was different. I just thought it was so clever, and great value at \u00a32. The asparagus with slow-cooked egg was wonderful and very seasonal, and the beef ribs were fabulous. I usually can\u2019t stand lettuce, but the butterhead lettuce salad with miso and crispy kale was really nice. The time has come for chefs to talk about the politics of food, and at Apricity there are discussions of environment and justice and equality, and there\u2019s great food and a beautiful, laid-back atmosphere.<\/p>\n

<\/a>SlowBurn started as a pop-up when everybody was pivoting in lockdown and doing something different to keep the lights on. It\u2019s in a denim factory. When you walk in, you\u2019re kind of confused at first because there are mannequins and sewing machines everywhere, but then you go through and the restaurant\u2019s at the back. That gives it a real wow factor. It\u2019s a vegetable-focused restaurant with meat on the side. I really liked the black bean gyoza taco, and the aubergine chermoula with spiced chickpeas and sheep\u2019s ricotta. I spoke very briefly to the chef, Chavdar Todorov. He seems to be drawing influences from various places and from his travels, much in the way that I do. It is doing great food, but in terms of the location, I don\u2019t think there are many experiences like that in the whole of London.<\/p>\n

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We believe everyone deserves access to information that\u2019s grounded in science and truth, and analysis rooted in authority and integrity. That\u2019s why we made a different choice: to keep our reporting open for all readers, regardless of where they live or what they can afford to pay. This means more people can be better informed, united, and inspired to take meaningful action.<\/p>\n

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For More News And Analysis About Gambia<\/a> Follow Africa-Press<\/a><\/strong><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Africa-Press – Gambia. Inverlonan is a rural retreat with bothies on a cliff edge overlooking Loch Nell. It has started doing dinners in a disused byre, with straw on the floor and tea lights among the brickwork. We went last November when it was freezing cold. They brought us blankets and hot-water bottles. The chef […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":84,"featured_media":20681,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[2,6,8],"tags":[8006,2355,2361,260,8005],"class_list":["post-20682","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-all-news","category-files","category-homepage-english","tag-12-restaurants","tag-africa-press","tag-africa-press-gambia","tag-gambia","tag-oysters"],"yoast_head":"\nFrom oysters in Argyll to gazpacho in Lichfield \u2013 12 restaurants to try right now - Gambia<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Inverlonan is a rural retreat with bothies on a cliff edge overlooking Loch Nell. 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