{"id":30004,"date":"2023-06-13T11:27:55","date_gmt":"2023-06-13T11:27:55","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.africa-press.net\/lesotho\/all-news\/is-lesothos-garment-industry-an-ethical-alternative"},"modified":"2023-06-13T11:52:47","modified_gmt":"2023-06-13T11:52:47","slug":"is-lesothos-garment-industry-an-ethical-alternative","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.africa-press.net\/lesotho\/all-news\/is-lesothos-garment-industry-an-ethical-alternative","title":{"rendered":"Is Lesotho\u2019s garment industry an \u2018ethical alternative\u2019?"},"content":{"rendered":"

Africa-Press – Lesotho. <\/strong><\/span>With just over two million inhabitants, the southern African kingdom of Lesotho is one of the world\u2019s smallest countries. A low-income country that currently ranks 160 out of 187 on the UN\u2019s Human Development Index, workers earn an average salary of US$570 per annum and some 42 per cent of its citizens are jobless.<\/p>\n

However, over the last eight years, its textile and garments manufacturing industry has grown to become one of Africa\u2019s biggest. At its peak in 2008, Lesotho\u2019s garment and textile exports totalled US$340 million.<\/p>\n

Fifteen years later and Lesotho\u2019s garment industry contributes 20 per cent to the country\u2019s GDP. In addition, 80 per cent of Lesotho\u2019s garments are manufactured for US mega-brands such as Gap, Levi Strauss and Wal-Mart.<\/p>\n

As a result, the growth of Lesotho\u2019s textile industry has brought various benefits to workers on the factory floor. Thirty-four-year-old Teboho Moeti is tasked with pressing steam irons over rows of casual denim shirts at Formosa Denim Mill in Maseru.<\/p>\n

For Teboho, who comes from a small village 200 miles away, his job is \u2018precious\u2019. \u201cI didn\u2019t go to school much but I earn US$420 every month ironing new shirts,\u201d he tells Equal Times.<\/p>\n

Teboho\u2019s salary, which includes bonuses and other benefits, is well above the sectoral minimum wage of US$92 a month, and demonstrates that in many ways, the conditions in Lesotho\u2019s textiles industry are more favourable than those endured by garment workers in Asia.<\/p>\n

In Lesotho, 40,000 mainly female workers are employed in 40-odd modern factories, and are protected by a raft of labour laws. \u201cAnyone under the age of 18 years is banned from working in the garment factories.<\/p>\n

They are not even allowed to scrub decks,\u201d says Pilani Beletho, a factory inspector in Lesotho. Lesotho also has one of the world\u2019s highest HIV infection rates (23.1 per cent of the adult population is HIV-positive), which has taken its toll on garment workers.<\/p>\n

But a number of initiatives, such as the Apparel Lesotho Alliance to Fight AIDS, work on the prevention and holistic treatment of workers living with HIV\/Aids.<\/p>\n

Maternity leave But unions point to a number of other issues regarding the country\u2019s largest private sector employer. While Lesotho labour law makes provisions for holiday leave, sick pay, pensions and injury compensation, these rights are not always guaranteed.<\/p>\n

Thabo Tshabalala, a regional officer at IndustriAll-Africa points to the issue of maternity leave, which is a major concern given the industry\u2019s young, mainly female workforce.<\/p>\n

\u201cPregnant workers frequently lose their jobs,\u201d he says.<\/p>\n

Many garment workers have to stand for their entire nine-hour shift doing physically demanding work, and this often continues even when workers become pregnant.<\/p>\n

And while recent labour law changes now allow pregnant workers to take six weeks maternity leave, many people are unaware of these amendments and only take two weeks.<\/p>\n

Then there is the issue of wages. \u201cYes, we have a starting [sectoral] wage but US$92 is a shame. It is a poverty wage,\u201d says Tshabalala. \u201cWorkers in China earn more than [they do in] Lesotho.<\/p>\n

\u201d And while freedom of association is respected in theory, there are often serious obstacles with regards to union membership.<\/p>\n

Pepe [he refused to give his real name in case of reprisals] was representing a worker whose fingers were burnt by an industrial clothes press. \u201cI was bluntly told [by my employers] to choose between my job and the trade union,\u201d he told Equal Times.<\/p>\n

This kind of intimidation goes some way to explain why only 58 per cent of Basotho textiles workers are represented by unions, according to the Lesotho Amalgamated Clothing and Textiles Workers Union.<\/p>\n

Health and safety is also still a big issue in Lesotho\u2019s garment factories. The country\u2019s high altitude means that it can be very cold and workers frequently complain of not being warm enough on the factory floor.<\/p>\n

\u201cWe need jackets and wool fleeces in winter,\u201d says Mzi Dakatho, a yarn cotton spinner.<\/p>\n

\u201cBut if we complain too much sometimes supervisors call us \u2018devils\u2019.<\/p>\n

Labour inspectors have also recorded other major health and safety infractions: poor ventilation; not enough fire exits; the unsafe storage and use of chemicals and clothes dyes; and the under-supply of face masks (required to protect workers from dust, fumes and fibres). Better Work Lesotho<\/p>\n

Since 2010, Better Work Lesotho, an initiative of the International Labour Organization (ILO) and the International Finance Corporation (IFC), has been working to improve conditions for factory workers by monitoring adherence to core ILO labour standards and national labour laws, and improving the relationship between workers and factory management.<\/p>\n

To date, Better Work Lesotho has negotiated employee health and sanitation inspections with 22 garment factories in the country. Alex Jo Seng, from Taiwan, owns the Manuk Garment Embroidery Factory.<\/p>\n

He admits: \u201cI didn\u2019t know the importance of fire drills and steam boiler inspections until Better Work Lesotho visited. I have up to 300 workers. I want to expand safety provisions for my labourers.<\/p>\n

Even my technicians from Taiwan must be trained on ethics and employee safety. \u201d But while factory owners accept the importance of adhering to safety standards in principle, they are very clear about their priorities. And with AGOA expiring later this year, these profits could be in serious jeopardy.<\/p>\n

Experts are worried that Lesotho will find it difficult to compete on the global market without the act, and like other AGOA beneficiaries, Lesotho is actively lobbying the US to extend the agreement by another 15 years.<\/p>\n

But AGOA is not a magic pill. Concerns have also been expressed that the trade generated by AGOA has been more beneficial to foreigners than it has been to locals.<\/p>\n

All of the Lesotho\u2019s garment factories are owned by Chinese or Taiwanese migrants, leaving commentators to wonder how much genuine economic transformation these investments really bring to the country.<\/p>\n

\u201cIt\u2019s a fragile success,\u201d says Tshabalala. But ultimately, the economic boost delivered by AGOA to Lesotho\u2019s economy has been crucial, he says.<\/p>\n

Without it, the garment industry in this small African nation will struggle to survive. \u201cMillions of dollars will be added as duty on shoes and textiles coming from Lesotho, making them expensive, if not unsellable. If AGOA is not renewed in September, jobs in Lesotho may crumble.\u201d<\/p>\n

For More News And Analysis About Lesotho<\/a> Follow Africa-Press<\/a><\/strong><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Africa-Press – Lesotho. With just over two million inhabitants, the southern African kingdom of Lesotho is one of the world\u2019s smallest countries. A low-income country that currently ranks 160 out of 187 on the UN\u2019s Human Development Index, workers earn an average salary of US$570 per annum and some 42 per cent of its citizens […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":84,"featured_media":30003,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[2,5],"tags":[233,246,324,245],"class_list":["post-30004","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-all-news","category-economy","tag-africa-press","tag-africa-press-lesotho","tag-hiv","tag-lesotho"],"yoast_head":"\nIs Lesotho\u2019s garment industry an \u2018ethical alternative\u2019? - Lesotho<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"With just over two million inhabitants, the southern African kingdom of Lesotho is one of the world\u2019s smallest countries ...\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.africa-press.net\/lesotho\/all-news\/is-lesothos-garment-industry-an-ethical-alternative\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Is Lesotho\u2019s garment industry an \u2018ethical alternative\u2019?\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"With just over two million inhabitants, the southern African kingdom of Lesotho is one of the world\u2019s smallest countries ...\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/www.africa-press.net\/lesotho\/all-news\/is-lesothos-garment-industry-an-ethical-alternative\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"Lesotho\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:publisher\" content=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/AfricaPressTunisiaa\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2023-06-13T11:27:55+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:modified_time\" content=\"2023-06-13T11:52:47+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:image\" content=\"https:\/\/static.africa-press.net\/lesotho\/sites\/62\/2023\/06\/sm_1686640720.142932.jpg\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:width\" content=\"414\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:height\" content=\"274\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:type\" content=\"image\/jpeg\" \/>\n<meta name=\"author\" content=\"cfeditoren\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:card\" content=\"summary_large_image\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"Written by\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"cfeditoren\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:label2\" content=\"Est. reading time\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data2\" content=\"5 minutes\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\/\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"Article\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/www.africa-press.net\/lesotho\/all-news\/is-lesothos-garment-industry-an-ethical-alternative#article\",\"isPartOf\":{\"@id\":\"https:\/\/www.africa-press.net\/lesotho\/all-news\/is-lesothos-garment-industry-an-ethical-alternative\"},\"author\":{\"name\":\"cfeditoren\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/www.africa-press.net\/lesotho\/#\/schema\/person\/068c7ab4e9634ae78ec5d54ec46598bb\"},\"headline\":\"Is Lesotho\u2019s garment industry an \u2018ethical alternative\u2019?\",\"datePublished\":\"2023-06-13T11:27:55+00:00\",\"dateModified\":\"2023-06-13T11:52:47+00:00\",\"mainEntityOfPage\":{\"@id\":\"https:\/\/www.africa-press.net\/lesotho\/all-news\/is-lesothos-garment-industry-an-ethical-alternative\"},\"wordCount\":1061,\"commentCount\":0,\"image\":{\"@id\":\"https:\/\/www.africa-press.net\/lesotho\/all-news\/is-lesothos-garment-industry-an-ethical-alternative#primaryimage\"},\"thumbnailUrl\":\"https:\/\/static.africa-press.net\/lesotho\/sites\/62\/2023\/06\/sm_1686640720.142932.jpg\",\"keywords\":[\"Africa Press\",\"Africa Press-Lesotho\",\"HIV\",\"Lesotho\"],\"articleSection\":[\"all news\",\"economy\"],\"inLanguage\":\"en-US\",\"potentialAction\":[{\"@type\":\"CommentAction\",\"name\":\"Comment\",\"target\":[\"https:\/\/www.africa-press.net\/lesotho\/all-news\/is-lesothos-garment-industry-an-ethical-alternative#respond\"]}]},{\"@type\":\"WebPage\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/www.africa-press.net\/lesotho\/all-news\/is-lesothos-garment-industry-an-ethical-alternative\",\"url\":\"https:\/\/www.africa-press.net\/lesotho\/all-news\/is-lesothos-garment-industry-an-ethical-alternative\",\"name\":\"Is Lesotho\u2019s garment industry an \u2018ethical alternative\u2019? 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