{"id":19940,"date":"2022-05-23T15:55:46","date_gmt":"2022-05-23T15:55:46","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.africa-press.net\/mozambique\/all-news\/maputo-neighbourhood-is-living-museum-of-mozambiques-culture"},"modified":"2022-05-23T15:55:46","modified_gmt":"2022-05-23T15:55:46","slug":"maputo-neighbourhood-is-living-museum-of-mozambiques-culture","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.africa-press.net\/mozambique\/all-news\/maputo-neighbourhood-is-living-museum-of-mozambiques-culture","title":{"rendered":"Maputo neighbourhood is \u2018living museum\u2019 of Mozambique\u2019s culture"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><span style=\"color: #ff6600\"><strong>Africa-Press &#8211; Mozambique. <\/strong><\/span>Turn a corner in Mozambique\u2019s seaside capital Maputo, and the skyline vanishes. Colonial Portuguese buildings and mid-century modernist apartment blocks give way to a maze of rutted alleys crammed with tin-roofed shacks.<\/p>\n<p>This is Mafalala, Maputo\u2019s most famous neighbourhood \u2014 a place enshrined in the guidebooks as the cradle of Mozambique\u2019s post-independence culture.<\/p>\n<p>But as a rough district in one of the world\u2019s poorest countries, residents struggle to capitalise on their community\u2019s heritage.<\/p>\n<p>Three years ago, a group of students and professionals decided to change that by opening a museum to preserve the district\u2019s history and culture.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cWe usually say that Mafalala is the capital of Maputo,\u201d said Ivan Laranjeira, director of the Mafalala Museum.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cThis is the heart and the soul of the city.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>The mustard-yellow building stands out among a sea of sheet metal roofs.<\/p>\n<p>Most young people in Mafalala survive day to day, relying on informal work, unable to fully exploit their heritage and creativity.<\/p>\n<p>Yet the district has produced two Mozambican presidents, Samora Machel and Joaquim Chissano, legendary footballer Eusebio da Silva Ferreira, and poet Jose Craveirinha.<\/p>\n<p>Since the 19th century, Mafalala has attracted workers from rural Mozambique, lured by cheap rent and short commutes to the city centre.<\/p>\n<p>With 30 of Mozambique\u2019s languages spoken here, the district is a hub of cultural diversity.<\/p>\n<p>Pubs rub shoulders with mosques and evangelical churches, between concrete block walls covered with colourful murals.<\/p>\n<p>Tourists are welcome to take walking tours and sample the local cuisine, but they are rare.<\/p>\n<p><b>Rich heritage<\/b><\/p>\n<p>\u201cThere is something special in particular about Mafalala, and that is the reason why this is a historical place,\u201d said Laranjeira, flanked by black and white pictures of some of the country\u2019s greatest past leaders on the wall behind him.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cMafalala is a neighbourhood that is actually a living museum.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>Signs stuck in the dusty streets list some of the local attractions. Machel\u2019s house. Eusebio\u2019s birthplace. And a tribute to Craveirinha\u2019s poetry, capturing the spirit of the place.<\/p>\n<p>But many of the homes of the district\u2019s famous figures have fallen into ruin, or are now occupied by new residents.<\/p>\n<p>It was in Mafalala\u2019s alleys that revolutionary spirits were raised and nurtured against Portuguese colonisers, culminating in a decade-long war that paved the way to independence in 1975.<\/p>\n<p>Since then, the revolutionaries have led the country, but the euphoria of liberation has died down.<\/p>\n<p>Now young, barefoot players kick footballs in the sand, in front of an imposing graffiti image of Eusebio.<\/p>\n<p>Back at the museum, Laranjeira \u2014 who has spent the past 15 years working to preserve the history of the district \u2014 explains the items on display.<\/p>\n<p>One is a handmade guitar fashioned from a tin box, with strings made from motorbike spokes. It was used by earlier singers of \u201cMarrabenta,\u201d a popular national dance genre.<\/p>\n<p>There are traditional costumes, as well as a rag football like the one used by Eusebio, who catapulted Portugal\u2019s team to worldwide fame in the 1960s.<\/p>\n<p>But it\u2019s not only the collections on display that matter here. The museum is also a cultural education centre for the neighbourhood\u2019s youth.<\/p>\n<p>Music is a big part of the district\u2019s culture.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cMafalala was a birthplace for musical creation,\u201d said rapper Danilo Malele, known by his stage name \u2018Kloro\u2019. He\u2019s composed a song dedicated to the district, called \u201cShow na mayf\u201d.<\/p>\n<p>The district\u2019s musical potential is thwarted by poverty, he said. Musicians \u201care not worried about doing music\u201d but \u201cstart and then leave it behind because they have other priorities\u201d.<\/p>\n<p>Jamal Age agrees. The 28-year-old brags that he\u2019s the best dancer in Mafalala, at least when it comes to breakdancing. But he says there\u2019s no future in it.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cWe love our culture, whether it\u2019s dancing, singing, music. But the problem is that we don\u2019t have enough money to fund these arts,\u201d Age said.<\/p>\n<p>When he\u2019s not dancing and recording his performances on the city\u2019s rooftops, he makes sofas in a workshop on the street.<\/p>\n<p>Now gentrification looms, threatening to push residents to the outskirts of the metropolis.<\/p>\n<p>Just a few blocks away are some of Mafalala\u2019s plushest villas and trendiest terraces \u2014 part of a grand refurbishment of the old city centre, now home to expatriates and rich elites.<\/p>\n<p><b>By<\/b><\/p>\n<p>Camille Laffont<\/p>\n<p><strong>For More News And Analysis About <a href=\"https:\/\/www.africa-press.net\/mozambique\">Mozambique<\/a> Follow <a href=\"https:\/\/www.africa-press.net\/\">Africa-Press<\/a><\/strong><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Africa-Press &#8211; Mozambique. Turn a corner in Mozambique\u2019s seaside capital Maputo, and the skyline vanishes. Colonial Portuguese buildings and mid-century modernist apartment blocks give way to a maze of rutted alleys crammed with tin-roofed shacks. This is Mafalala, Maputo\u2019s most famous neighbourhood \u2014 a place enshrined in the guidebooks as the cradle of Mozambique\u2019s post-independence [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":84,"featured_media":19939,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[2,4,8,16,18],"tags":[233,281,283],"class_list":["post-19940","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-all-news","category-culture-and-art","category-homepage-english","category-twitter","category-video","tag-africa-press","tag-africa-press-mozambique","tag-mozambique"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO Premium plugin v26.1 (Yoast SEO v27.0) - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-premium-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Maputo neighbourhood is \u2018living museum\u2019 of Mozambique\u2019s culture - Mozambique<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.africa-press.net\/mozambique\/all-news\/maputo-neighbourhood-is-living-museum-of-mozambiques-culture\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Maputo neighbourhood is \u2018living museum\u2019 of Mozambique\u2019s culture\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Africa-Press &#8211; Mozambique. Turn a corner in Mozambique\u2019s seaside capital Maputo, and the skyline vanishes. Colonial Portuguese buildings and mid-century modernist apartment blocks give way to a maze of rutted alleys crammed with tin-roofed shacks. 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