{"id":6342,"date":"2020-12-19T02:20:58","date_gmt":"2020-12-19T02:20:58","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.africa-press.com\/senegal\/?p=6342"},"modified":"2020-12-19T02:20:58","modified_gmt":"2020-12-19T02:20:58","slug":"tribune-dakar-ville-occidentee","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.africa-press.net\/senegal\/homepage-french\/tribune-dakar-ville-occidentee","title":{"rendered":"[Tribune] Dakar, ville \u00ab\u00a0occident\u00e9e\u00a0\u00bb"},"content":{"rendered":"

Africa-Press<\/a> – Senegal<\/a>. <\/strong><\/span>Dakar tient en deux aspects, \u00ab l\u2019occident\u00e9 \u00bb et l\u2019impr\u00e9visibilit\u00e9, qui font de la capitale s\u00e9n\u00e9galaise une ville attachante. \u00abOccident\u00e9 \u00bb. Mot-valise combinant \u00ab occidentalis\u00e9 \u00bb et \u00ab accident\u00e9 \u00bb. C\u2019est le qualificatif que donne \u00e0 Dakar le dramaturge, \u00e9crivain et acteur culturel s\u00e9n\u00e9galais, feu Oumar Ndao, auteur du beau livre Dakar, l\u2019ineffable, qui vient d\u2019\u00eatre r\u00e9\u00e9dit\u00e9 en poche*. La capitale s\u00e9n\u00e9galaise, partie continentale de l\u2019Afrique la plus avanc\u00e9e dans l\u2019oc\u00e9an Atlantique, est en effet \u00e0 l\u2019ouest. Et parfois, \u00ab compl\u00e8tement \u00e0 l\u2019ouest \u00bb.<\/p>\n

Dakar tient finalement en deux aspects\u2009: \u00ab l\u2019occident\u00e9 \u00bb et l\u2019impr\u00e9visibilit\u00e9. D\u2019abord, \u00ab l\u2019occident\u00e9 \u00bb. Ces situations cocasses o\u00f9 les oripeaux architecturaux coloniaux, les tentatives de remises en ordre et de mises au pas, h\u00e9rit\u00e9es d\u2019une administration calqu\u00e9e sur celle de l\u2019Europe, entrent en collision avec l\u2019exub\u00e9rance autochtone et ses protub\u00e9rances \u00ab rurbaines \u00bb. Ainsi, les perspectives rectilignes qui t\u00e9moignent d\u2019un vrai plan d\u2019urbanisme du centre-ville, de la M\u00e9dina attenante et des quartiers (Sicap, Mermoz, HLM) cr\u00e9\u00e9s dans les ann\u00e9es 1960 et 1970 par le pr\u00e9sident-po\u00e8te L\u00e9opold S\u00e9dar Senghor ont vite fait de c\u00e9der le pas aux ruelles en oblique et chauss\u00e9es \u00e0 dos d\u2019\u00e2ne non conventionnelles des nouveaux quartiers.<\/p>\n

Dans la ville \u00ab moderne \u00bb, des quartiers qui se d\u00e9signent eux-m\u00eames comme des \u00ab villages traditionnels \u00bb font de la r\u00e9sistance, avec une grande force d\u2019inertie. Dakar n\u2019a pas \u00e9t\u00e9 \u00ab fond\u00e9e \u00bb en 1857, comme le pr\u00e9tend l\u2019histoire officielle. Les villages des \u00ab L\u00e9bous \u00bb, cette branche des Wolofs qui parlent une langue aux tournures typiques avec un vocabulaire sp\u00e9cifique tr\u00e8s vaste, \u00e9taient d\u00e9j\u00e0 l\u00e0 depuis des si\u00e8cles. Les L\u00e9bous, qui ont majoritairement ralli\u00e9 la confr\u00e9rie musulmane lay\u00e8ne, ont leur \u00ab grand Serigne de Dakar \u00bb, qui leur tient lieu de roi coutumier.<\/p>\n

Les Lay\u00e8nes, dont le fondateur est consid\u00e9r\u00e9 comme une r\u00e9incarnation africaine et musulmane de J\u00e9sus, sont entre autres \u00e0 Camb\u00e9r\u00e8ne [proche banlieue de Dakar]. L\u00e0-bas, ils font bloc contre la connexion de deux bouts d\u2019autoroute par un pont d\u00e9j\u00e0 construit, qui se trouve pile devant le mausol\u00e9e du fils a\u00een\u00e9 et premier khalife du Mahdi fondateur. Et le pont tr\u00f4ne l\u00e0, sur la plage, incongru comme une ch\u00e8vre perch\u00e9e sur un poteau \u00e9lectrique.<\/p>\n

\u00c0 Ngor, sur la corniche \u00e0 Soumb\u00e9dioune ou \u00e0 Ouakam, ou encore \u00e0 Yoff, leurs \u00ab villages \u00bb, il n\u2019est pas rare que les L\u00e9bous organisent sur la plage une s\u00e9ance d\u2019exorcisme pour \u00ab d\u00e9senvo\u00fbter \u00bb une personne neurasth\u00e9nique\u2009: le ndeup, avec battements de tam-tam, immolation d\u2019un b\u0153uf et bain de la personne \u00ab poss\u00e9d\u00e9e \u00bb avec le sang du bovin.<\/p>\n

L\u2019impr\u00e9visibilit\u00e9 de Dakar, c\u2019est une horde de \u00ab Baye Fall \u00bb (disciples mourides) qui s\u2019invite dans les embouteillages. Tunique jusqu\u2019aux genoux, sarouel patchwork et rastas, ils formulent pour vous des pri\u00e8res ferventes, avec un sourire radieux, alors que vous ne pouvez rien leur donner. Effarement garanti aussi devant l\u2019affabilit\u00e9 exag\u00e9r\u00e9e de nombre de Dakarois qui, lorsque vous leur demandez votre chemin, vous l\u2019indiquent, quand bien m\u00eame ils ne savent pas.<\/p>\n

Et parfois, s\u2019ils sont en groupe, ils finiront par se disputer pour d\u00e9cider qui aura le droit de vous donner le bon itin\u00e9raire. Vous tentez de les calmer, et vous vous faites illico remettre \u00e0 votre place. Impond\u00e9rables de Dakar, quand des administrations sont cens\u00e9ment ouvertes, mais vous y d\u00e9couvrez que le pr\u00e9pos\u00e9 a ferm\u00e9 son guichet en raison d\u2019un d\u00e9c\u00e8s familial ou parce qu\u2019il a d\u00e9cid\u00e9 d\u2019aller voir ce jour-l\u00e0 ce parent au cas o\u00f9 il serait sur le point de tr\u00e9passer.<\/p>\n

Impr\u00e9dictibilit\u00e9 avec des rues o\u00f9 soudain une tente barre le chemin parce qu\u2019il y a un bapt\u00eame ou un mariage\u2009: vous \u00e9tiez pourtant pass\u00e9 par l\u00e0 deux heures plus t\u00f4t. L\u2019inattendu encore\u2009: des nouveaux commerces, bars ou restaurants, dont on apprend la cessation d\u2019activit\u00e9 le jour o\u00f9 on avait d\u00e9cid\u00e9 d\u2019en \u00eatre un client.<\/p>\n

Ce sont l\u00e0 quelques-uns des c\u00f4t\u00e9s contrast\u00e9s qui font de Dakar une ville o\u00f9 l\u2019on ne sait pas de quoi notre journ\u00e9e sera faite, ce qui la rend d\u2019autant plus attachante, y compris pour ses visiteurs, vite devenus de vrais Boys Dakar. L\u2019expression unisexe qui d\u00e9signe ceux qui ont la capitale s\u00e9n\u00e9galaise dans la peau. *Dakar, l\u2019ineffable, de Oumar Ndao, \u00e9ditions Vives Voix, janvier 2011, r\u00e9\u00e9dit\u00e9 au format poche en septembre 2020.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Africa-Press – Senegal. Dakar tient en deux aspects, \u00ab l\u2019occident\u00e9 \u00bb et l\u2019impr\u00e9visibilit\u00e9, qui font de la capitale s\u00e9n\u00e9galaise une ville attachante. \u00abOccident\u00e9 \u00bb. Mot-valise combinant \u00ab occidentalis\u00e9 \u00bb et \u00ab accident\u00e9 \u00bb. C\u2019est le qualificatif que donne \u00e0 Dakar le dramaturge, \u00e9crivain et acteur culturel s\u00e9n\u00e9galais, feu Oumar Ndao, auteur du beau livre Dakar, […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":82,"featured_media":6341,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[22,11],"tags":[43,44],"class_list":["post-6342","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-divers","category-homepage-french","tag-africa-press-2","tag-senegal-2"],"yoast_head":"\n[Tribune] Dakar, ville \u00ab\u00a0occident\u00e9e\u00a0\u00bb - Senegal<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.africa-press.net\/senegal\/homepage-french\/tribune-dakar-ville-occidentee\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"fr_FR\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"[Tribune] Dakar, ville \u00ab\u00a0occident\u00e9e\u00a0\u00bb\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Africa-Press – Senegal. Dakar tient en deux aspects, \u00ab l\u2019occident\u00e9 \u00bb et l\u2019impr\u00e9visibilit\u00e9, qui font de la capitale s\u00e9n\u00e9galaise une ville attachante. \u00abOccident\u00e9 \u00bb. Mot-valise combinant \u00ab occidentalis\u00e9 \u00bb et \u00ab accident\u00e9 \u00bb. 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