Mauritius: Sampling the island nation’s cuisine without borders

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Mauritius: Sampling the island nation’s cuisine without borders
Mauritius: Sampling the island nation’s cuisine without borders

Africa-Press – Mauritius. As I board the car from my hotel in Balaclava, Mauritius, my driver tells me that it is going to be a memorable evening. The only vehicle on the road, we make our presence felt with blaring sega music and lights that make our automobile look like a sparkling jewellery box.

Even the handbrake has lights on it. The driver is not being flashy, he is simply living the way Mauritians do – full of life, vibrancy and energy. The drive is a prelude to a more entertaining dinner interaction with my host at Pointe aux Piments village, the Bhuyun family.

Ved Bhuyun who has Indian ancestry, welcomes me with a garland of flowers, a glass of punch and more sega music. A Hanuman temple guards his home. After donning an apron, we start making our dinner.

I knead and roll parathas. Peppered with anecdotes, I don’t realize how many parathas have been prepared. The curry made of chayote is almost ready while the dhal or dal is being cooked by Bhuyun’s wife.

Ved insists on preparing the fish biryani. His son and nephew lay the table. My meal includes a crunchy cucumber salad, a zesty lemon salad, parathas, chayote curry and dal with accompaniments.

There is also fish and chicken curry served alongside the fish biryani. I had entered the Bhuyun household as a guest but the camaraderie makes me feel like I am part of their family.

Before leaving, the family gifts me a white t-shirt signed by each of them. The wife scrawls ‘No problem in Mauritius’ above their signatures. This impromptu gesture warms my heart. It is the first of many such encounters in the country.

On another sunny morning, with the Indian Ocean in the backdrop, I relish a Mauritian breakfast of gateaux piment or chilli bites made with yellow split peas, beignets made from okra and aubergine, tomato chilli coriander chutney and di pain maison which is a local bread – served on a banana leaf.

Try restaurant hopping in Mauritius for palm heart salad, which is a popular Mauritian salad. Made from the most tender part of the palm tree which is got after shaving its leaves and bark, the palm heart is immersed in milk till an order is received.

I had it with an olive oil and balsamic vinegar dressing, with cut tomatoes and onions and also with bell peppers that were mixed with pomegranate. Varangue Sur Morne located at the edge of the Black River Gorges National Park serves a delicious palm heart salad.

Its patrons include Prince Charles, Robert De Niro and Amitabh Bachchan. The restaurant also offers saago, a dessert made of sago (also from the palm trees), coconut milk and condensed milk.

It is lavishly served with coconut ice cream. Seafood lovers’ are spoilt for choice in Mauritius with the catch of the day served grilled, baked or crusted.

Wapalapam Island Eatery, situated near the Le Morne Brabant mountain, is a popular restaurant. It is the labour of love of Rok Flander, a former Snowboard World Champion and his wife.

The eatery which used to be a former bank has a charming island vibe to it. The interiors are relaxing while the menu serves dishes that are local and pay tribute to the Indian Ocean.

Here, surf boards have been placed as wall displays. And the all-wooden furniture echoes with century-old stories and is made from wood sourced from a colonial home.

Feeling famished, I stack my plate with jackfruit salad. While jackfruit kofta is made in tomato gravy, the fish in banana leaf is made with a coconut, lime and onion paste.

The satini is one of the best in Mauritius. Giant prawns and grilled lobster are served with fattoush and garlic butter. If you have space in your stomach for sides, creole fattoush is waiting with manioc fries.

On my last day in the country, I leisurely watch the sunset from the resort. Sinking my feet in the white sand, soaking in the ocean breeze, I celebrate the sunset with napos.

The dessert which is made by sandwiching shortbread cookies with a guava compote is a befitting sweet farewell to Mauritius that has seamlessly blended diverse cultures on its plate.

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